Gas Cooktop or Stove Igniter Repair
Easy Gas Igniter / Spark Module Diagnosis & Repair Steps
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Gas cook top igniter repairs: this article explains the cause, diagnosis, and cure of cooktop or gas range igniter problems that cause continuous clicking, or failure to ignite gas burners or a gas oven properly.
How to fix clicking igniters on a gas cooktop.
Watch out: Some of these conditions are dangerous.
The gas igniter troubles discussed here apply to some models of gas appliances including gas stoves, gas ovens, and gas cooktops where an automatic or pilot less gas ignition system is used.
We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.
Gas Range Top Igniter Repair
This article begins with 7 easy steps to fixing a gas igniter / gas burner no-light problem.
If none of those steps gets your gas burner working we continue with a detailed case history exploring other less obvious causes of gas burners that fail to ignite when they should.
You can usually get the igniter working, stop igniter clicking, and get the gas burner on without having to do much disassembly and without having to move the gas stove out from the wall or cooktop from its mount.
If none of those steps brings you success then post a comment describing your gas appliance ignition problem along with a photo (one per commment) at the end of this page and we'll reply.
Photo at left: the igniter module and other key parts inside a Jenn-Air countertop gas cooktop.
Click to enlarge any image]
We replaced this item as well as the wiring and individual igniters to cure chronic gas burner ignition problems: endless clicking. Details of that repair are found in the article below.
Gas Appliance Igniter Diagonsis & Repair Articles
- GAS COOKTOP or STOVE IGNITER REPAIR
- QUICK DIAGNOSTIC TABLE for IGNITER PROBLEMS - summary of common igniter problems
- 7 EASY IGNITER CHECKS - step by step diagnostics
- DETAILED IGNITER DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR - details of how to fix igniters
- IGNITER STRAY CURRENTS & SHOCKS
- IGNITER CLICKING DIAGNOSIS
- IGNITER REMOVAL / REPLACEMENT
- GAS COOKTOP RANGE & OVEN MANUALS
- GAS IGNITER DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR - home
Gas Burner Igniter Repair Quick-Diagnostics Table
Gas Burner Igniter Diagnosis Summary | ||
| Igniter Problem | Cause | Repair |
| Burners won't ignite | 1. Burner cap askew 2. Dirty burner cap, bad ground, wet wire 3. Bad spark module 4. Low gas pressure or no gas supply 5. Very dirty burner - blocked gas orifices | 1. Check that burner cap is placed properly on the burner assembly 2. Clean burner cap and assure it's properly-mounted, check for wet, shorted, damaged igniter wire 3. Replace spark module 4. Verify gas pressure at 4" WCP for natural gas or 5. Inspect & clean holes in the burner head |
| No spark at burner | 1. Dirty burner cap, bad ground 2. Bad spark module | 1. Clean burner cap and assure it's properly-mounted Check for wet or shorted wires between module & igniter 2. Replace spark module |
| No spark at burner when burner knob turned to LITE position | 1. Lost electrical power: no 120VAC to range 2. Burner-knob micro-switch contacts bad 3. Dirty electrode, dirty burner cap, burner cap askew 4. Cracked, broken electrode 5. Improper, damaged, or shorted wiring between igniter & module or poor connection at burner electrode & electrode socket 6. Bad spark module | 1. Verify voltage at wall outlet 2. Check wiring against diagram, Verify all terminals & Check micro switch contacts. 3. Clean electrode, clean contact area at burner, assure 4. Replace electrode 5. Assure wires not wet including inside range top; Check wiring against diagram, Verify all terminals & Replace questionable wire. 6. Check module per manual's test procedure; Replace bad spark module. |
| No spark or only random spark at one ignitor. | 1. Check for cracked ignitor or pinched ignitor wire 2. Poor electrical continuity to burner cap 3. Bad ground connection or lack of continuity to ground or ignitor 4. Cracked or broken ignitor extension lead. | 1. Replace ignitor lead or electrode. 2. Clean burner cap. Check that lead wire is not wet. 3. Tighten ground connection and correct any breaks in ground path from ignitor path to unit ground path. 4. Replace ignitor lead. |
| Unit continues to spark after knob is turned to OFF | 1. Shorted valve switch/harness 2. Switch has slipped off the valve | 1. Replace switch/harness. If shorting is caused by excessive spillovers, customer education is advised. 2. Carefully reposition switch on valve and rotate from OFF to high, several times to verify switch is not broken. |
| Igniters won't stop clicking | 1. Dirt or debris at spark contact, igniter to burner 2. Defective igniter 3. Reversed polarity at stove power supply/receptacle | 1. Clean the surfaces & make sure ALL of the parts are dry 2. If some igniters stop but one keeps clicking, swap igniters and wires to diagnose a bad igniter or wire. See IGNITER CLICKING DIAGNOSIS 3. Check for proper wiring, polarity, and grounding at the stove's electrical supply - wall receptacle |
Notes to the table above
Adapted & expanded from Jenn-Air DUAL FUEL RANGE SERVICE MANUAL [PDF] (2004) PRD3030* PRD3630* & other models, gas cooktop, electric oven
Please continue with the 7 igniter repair steps given below
7 Easy Steps in Gas Igniter Troubleshooting - gas stove or cooktop burner won't ignite
When a gas-fired heating appliance stops working the problem may be with the igniter, not other gas valve components.
Our photo shows an LP gas stove top burner igniter sparking away.
Watch out: we disassembled the stove top burner to make this photo. But don't turn on your gas stove with burner parts missing - the flame won't ignite properly and you could cause a dangerous gas explosion.
Igniter Repair Step 1. Is there LP gas or natural fuel?
If you don't hear gas hissing out at the gas burner your appliance may be out of fuel - a condition more likely if your fuel is LP gas supplied from a tank.
If your appliance uses piped-in natural gas from a utility company it's still possible that the gas supply has been shut off. If that's the case then none of the gas appliances in your building will be working.
Igniter Repair Step 2. Is the igniter sparking and clicking?
If you don't hear clicking or a snapping sound and if you do NOT see a spark (like the one in my photo above) then the igniter module could be shot or an igniter wire may have become disconnected.
Watch out: just to avoid embarrassment, if you're unsure about whether or not your cooktop uses electronic ignition at the burners, check the manual for your gas cooktop or range: does it use a continuous or always-on gas pilot light?
If so your cooktop does not use an electronic igniter and you should not be looking for a sparking or clicking sound. But if your burners won't light the pilot light could be out.
If none of the igniters spark check for a power failure. Check that the appliance is plugged in and that its circuit breaker or fuse is on or intact.
If there is electrical power to the stove or cooktop but no igniters spark or click the igniter module may need replacement. In my experience replacing an igniter module should be the very last thing you try, because 90% of the time the igniter problem is instead one of those listed in these 7 steps. Usually if the igniter module is bad then none of the igniters will spark or all will spark only weakly.
Less common is weak sparking at one or all igniters. A weak spark may be due to water on the igniter, wet wiring, a cracked damaged igniter or on occasion a failing igniter module.
If all of the igniters spark that may be normal operation for your gas range or cooktop. For example on pretty much all GE and MABE gas range burners all of the burners spark when any one (or more) of them is turned to LITE. The burners should stop sparking when the turned-on burner ignites.
Watch out: GE includes this safety warning:
The electrode of the spark igniter is exposed when the burner head is removed. When one burner is turned to LITE, all the burners spark. Do not attempt to disassemble or clean around any burner while another burner is on. An electric shock may result, which could cause you to knock over hot cookware.
- reference
- GE NON-SELF-CLEANING GAS RANGES MANUAL [PDF] (2008)
- GAS COOKTOP RANGE & OVEN MANUALS
If the igniter continues to spark continuously after the burner flame has lit check the following causes
- Wet or dirty igniters, wet igniter wire, possibly below the stovertop, or grease or burned food on the gas burner edge towards which the igniter spark must jump
- Wiring error: electrical power to the appliance has hot and neutral wires reversed or polarity has been reversed at the igniter module
- Electrical ground loss: the ground for the power supply or igniter module has been lost or disconnected.
If some igniters spark and others do not, check the non-sparking igniter, wire connections, wire, and the individual burner igniter switch (found at the burner control knob).
Igniter switches, igniters, and wires are all replaceable parts.
Igniter Repair Step 3. Is a gas burner cap askew?
The burner cap may look straight, especially when viewed from above, but in fact it might be improperly placed. This problem can be subtle so check carefully - see if you can rotate the burner cap to assure that it is level and properly seated.
Above: the gas burner cap on this Bosch cooktop is askew - a SNAFU you may miss when you just look at the burner from above.
Below: the same gas burner cap, properly installed, lies flat on the burner and doesn't wobble when I rotate it.
Igniter Repair Step 4. Is there water on the gas burner or burner cap or igniter?
Often after cleaning a stove top or cooktop we've left water or cleaner on those surfaces.
That can cause shorting of or even suppression of the igniter spark. Remove the burner cap - just lift it off, no un-screwing or other disassembly is needed. Inspect for and dry off any liquid.
Igniter Repair Step 5. Inspect the ceramic igniter & burner & burner cap for clogging, debris, or damage.
Usually a few clogged orifices will not prevent a burner from igniting but it will burn with an uneven flame or flame may be absent at a few (clogged) orifices.
Also check the burner or burner cap notches or orifices for grease or debris clogging.
Use a toothbrush or a wooden toothpick to clean out gunk if necessary.
Watch out: Don't use a metal tool that can break, gouge, or enlarge the burner gaps or orifices.
Look at the igniter itself for cracks, chips, grease, soiling, other damage.
If the ceramic igniter itself is actually cracked or damaged it may be shorting to ground and unable to ignite the gas flame.
To clean the cruddy igniter above (on a JennAir cooktop) I used liquid cleaner, a toothbrush, and a wooden toothpick, taking care not to damage the ceramic igniter.
Once the ceramic igniter itself is clean, look closely for dark lines indicating that the ceramic is cracked or chipped .In that case the ceramic igniter itself needs replacement.
On many cooktops, to inspect the entire ceramic igniter you'll need to remove the cast aluminum burner base - typically by unscrewing a center nut (just visible at the right side of the photo above) or by loosening a couple of screws that hold the burner in place. But on some cooktops the whole cooktop must be disassembled - don't try that before turning off electricity and gas to the appliance.
Details are at IGNITER REMOVAL / REPLACEMENT
Igniter Repair Step 6. Continue by checking the igniter wiring itself.
If the igniter wire connection is loose or damaged that could be the problem. Check
- the wire connection at the bottom of the igniter
- the wire connection at the other end - at the igniter control module
Check the ignire wire for nicks, shorts, or wetness along its entire length.
We have seen recurrent problems with some stove-top gas igniters whose wires ran across the interior pan of the stovetop where they rested in water or cleaners used to clean that appliance.
The result was a shorted igniter wire and constant clicking that drove the homeowners crazy.
Igniter Repair Step 7. You may need to replace the igniter module
The igniter module on modern gas appliances is a solid state block or cube that contains electronics and wires that connect between the gas burner control knobs and the igniters at each gas burner.
On nearly all cooktops and gas ranges, to access the igniter module you'll need to disassemble the cooktop or range top surface, though some range tops may be hinged and can simply be lifted up from the range base by un-clipping some hidden fasteners using a putty knife.
Watch out: do not try to disassemble the range top before
- Turning off electrical power to the appliance
- Turning off the gas supply to the appliance
- Consulting the manual for your specific cootop or range top to find the location of the ignitier moduile and the location of various fasteners that must be removed to access it.
See GAS COOKTOP RANGE & OVEN MANUALS
Otherwise you may waste time disassembling the wrong parts or worse you may get shocked or cause a gas explosion.
Tip for fooling with electrical wire connections in appliances
Take photos. If you're too lazy (as I am) tag each individual wire and terminal or to write down the colour codes (such as "Red Wire to Terminal 11), photos can help you make the right re-connections later.
If none of the steps above got your gas burner working continue with the more-detailed gas appliance igniter diagnosis and repair steps given next.
Details of Repair of Gas Appliance Igniters
The igniters on the LP gas in-counter stovetop described here had been annoying since shortly after this appliance was installed.
Turning on the gas burner is supposed to cause it to ignite automagically. But instead the burner blows, blasts, or never ignites, and the igniter clicks continuously. Or the burner will ignite, but the igniter won't stop clicking.
There are plenty of explanations around about how these gas flame igniters work and how they are smart enough to turn off after the flame ignites.
Below we focus on how to repair igniters that are just maddeningly bad behavers.
Problems & Fixes for Automatic Gas Flame Igniters
We are using a gas range top for this example but these defects or some of them can occur on other automatic or electronic ignition gas fired appliances.
Uneven or yellow gas flame: check for gas burner top that is not properly in place. This is not an igniter problem but a flame problem.
Similarly if the burner ignites the flame should be mostly blue with a yellow tip. If the flame is mostly yellow the air mixture or fuel adjustment or regulator adjustment is improper. This is also not an igniter problem.
The gas burner top is askew as we show in our photographs below, perhaps after it has been removed (say for cleaning) and has not been properly and squarely replaced. Look closely to be sure your stovetop parts are properly seated, especially if they were removed for cleaning.
Notice those two pins sticking up on the burner base in our photo at below-right?
Notice those two half-round indentations in the burner cap (shown upside down in the lower portion of the same photo ?
Those tell you how to align the burner top properly. Even a small misalignment can prevent proper gas burner operation, and like many gas appliance defects, may be unsafe too.
Above: an askew burner cap and a rather gummy burner base on a JennAir gas cooktop that gave us years of aggravation.
More examples of a poorly seated gas burner cap are
at GAS BURNER CAP NOT SEATED - another article in this series.
The gas flame igniter or the gap between the igniter's electrode and the metal surface to which its spark is supposed to travel becomes soiled with food spillage, dirt, grease - and can be gently cleaned with a toothbrush and perhaps scouring powder.
The gas flame igniter becomes cracked and short-circuits or fails intermittently - the repair solution is to replace the igniter element with a new one. Cooks who often allow pots to boil over and spill water on the hot igniter may contribute to this failure - we're not sure, but in our opinion it's a poor product design that cannot tolerate typical events that occur in the home. The gas flame igniter wiring becomes wet by using too much liquid when cleaning the stove top. In this case the igniter may fail to stop clicking, or may fail to ignite the burner until the wiring has dried. Use less liquid and don't spill liquids into the stove top interior. We have seen these wires short and melt inside the stovetop. The gas igniter wire is loose, broken, shorted, damaged: If there is no spark at all and if the appliance has power, the problem may be a loose or disconnected wire between the control module and the igniter, or a wire that has shorted. The gas flame igniter control module has failed: the igniter control module on modern gas appliances including stovetops is a solid-state device inside the appliance (usually inside the stovetop for cookstoves and ranges) that creates the high-voltage electrical pulse sent to the ceramic-and-metal igniter that you see at the edge of the gas burner. You should see a strong white spark between the igniter pin and the metal edge of the gas burner. If you see a weak yellow spark or no spark at all AND if you have already checked the igniter wire and its connections, I suspect that the module has failed and needs replacement. More gas burner igniter troubleshooting details are at GAS IGNITER CLICKING DIAGNOSIS in this article and in more detail at GAS IGNITER DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR - separate article. Watch out: as our photos below illustrate, water or other liquids spilling onto electrical wiring inside of a range top can cause a short circuit. At above left we show the interior of this gas range top. The blue box at top center is the control module. At above right you can see that one of the stovetop's internal connectors was shorting to the metal body of the range enclosure. Our photo at above left shows the shorted stove wiring connector, and at above right, the arc-burn into the steel of the stove top interior, confirming that the connector was shorting to the grounded stove body. Water leaking into the range top interior caused this failure. We re-wired the appliance (using the proper high-temperature-rated electrical wiring materials) and we made sure that the wiring was supported off of the metal range top interior surfaces to prevent a recurrence of this problem. Watch out: when disassembling appliance parts - some stove gas burner parts are made of soft case metal. If in disassembly or reassembly you strip the threads on these parts you may not be able to reassemble the gas burners safely and those larger part assemblies will need replacement. The gas igniter control module may itself fail and need replacement. This is a more costly part, and in our experience is less often the problem than the items above. 8/24/14 Sue Deaunym said: So, my Maytag gas range was installed about 6 years ago. Its never been exactly "right," and from time to time, the igniter would begin clicking every 10 seconds or so, even when the burners were fully off. (Unplugging the range for a few minutes usually remedied the problem.) The gas range replaced an electric one. But we've always had some funky electrical problems in the kitchen that we've never before associated with the range. An outlet strip wired into the outlet box into which the range was plugged would occasionally shock people who touched it. I inspected the outlet box and the strip, and could find nothing wrong with it. Checked with a volt meter, it seems OK. I installed an underground gas line to a propane tank last week, and the guy hooking it up aid he was shocked on several occasions. So I went under the house and measured 120VAC on the copper pie leaving the house. Disconnecting the range the stray current disappeared. Looking at the starter devices at each burner, I see no problem. Sue Thanks for this excellent tip about gas flame igniters - it's not one I'd considered and it makes perfect sense. Some igniters depend on proper electrical grounding for proper operation including the sensing of when gas or an actual flame is present. I'll add your notes to the article above. It sounds as if there is a wiring error or accidental short circuit in your range. Start by turning off power to the range - that will turnoff power to any clock, control board, the igniter module, and the igniters and their wiring. Next, remove the range top burner parts and top itself sufficiently to expose the wiring to the igniters. It's certainly possible that the stray current was a factor in damaging those components. Sometimes I also see these other problems that cause problems with clicking gas igniters or igniters that in fact don't ignite the gas flame: Keep us posted. 2016/08/02 LC said: Hi, my stove top burners light perfectly BUT they wont stop clicking (and I have thoroughly cleaned everything!) help! LC if a gas flame igniter won't stop clicking the problem is almost always going to be one of the defects we list in the checklist below. I list these checkpoints in order of ease, leaving the most difficult and most-costly (igniter control module replacement) until las> If the gas flame does not ignite, start your diagnosis by reviewing our gas burner troubleshooting tips beginning at GAS COOKTOP or STOVE IGNITER REPAIR There are photos of this problem earlier in this article. Don't try that before turning off both gas and electrical power to the appliance. Also check the igniter wire connectors: these small brass connectors clip the wire at one end to the spark igniter module and at the wire's other end a clip will connect the wire to a metal pin at the bottom of the ceramic-insulated igniter element. If the clips are dirty, wet, or loose the igniter may not work reliably. Also check the wires for continuity - a wire itself, or its connector at either end could be cracked or damaged or broken. It's easy to swap in another wire from a working burner to try this test. In our photo (above/left) you can see that a wire connector (photo center) between the blue igniter control module (photo upper right) and the gas burner igniter was wet and shorting to the metal surface of the stovetop assembly. Watch out: don't simply use any handy electrical wire to replace a bad burner igniter wire; you'll notice, perhaps, that the burner wires are insulated with high-heat-resistant wire covering. An easy way to do this is to swap a burner control knob that is working (from a different burner on your stovetop) into the position of the one that just won't behave. You'll need to order a matching gas burner igniter control module that matches your specific appliance. You can find the proper part numbers both in the installation manual for your gas appliance and on the igniter module itself. Check with the manufacturer for a replacement part but also check online vendors. But be sure that the replacement part you order is exactly the proper one for your appliance. Watch out: make these checks with the gas off and surfaces cool enough that you can touch them without getting burned; Watch out: if you smell gas and/or suspect there are gas leaks do not keep trying to ignite the burner(s) as you could risk a gas explosion. See GAS LEAK DETECTION, LP / NG Hi - My Jenn-Air Cooktop, CVGX2423B has the clicking problem - clicks after lighting for a few minutes. I've replaced the module, and problem continues, so I purchased 4 igniters, seeing that some were covered in grease, on the part under the pan. My Question Is - how to replace the igniter? There is no bracket, it is not threaded, it won't push out... not sure how to remove it - to replace it? Thanks. Rob: Jenn-Air's instruction manual for this cooktop says that the burner base is "not removable" and they don't offer much in-manual detail, telling you to first call your installing or selling dealer for help or second, if (or we might say when) that doesn't work, call Maytag Appliances at 1-800-688-1100 Replacing the igniter on a Jenn-Air yourself means going beyond the instructions in their I&O Manual, working carefully, and accepting the risk that if you damage parts or install them incorrectly your cooktop could fail to work or could be unsafe. With that warning in place, it's not difficult to remove and replace the igniter but there are some slip-ups to be avoided. On the My Jenn-Air Cooktop, CVGX2423B the igniter is held in place by the cast metal burner base. My photo above shows the securing nut that holds the cast metal burner base in place on a typical Jenn-Air gas cooktop. You can also see that securing nut marked in this Jenn-Air gas cooktop parts diagram (below). Here's a tip for getting the old igniter out and the new igniter in: On some of these range tops, "not removable" really means not normally removable, but you can, with care, unscrew a large central brass nut that holds the burner base in place. Doing so will permit lifting the base up and off and then lifting out the igniter, unplugging it from its wire, and plugging in the new one. Watch out: I have had horrible problems with this repair when the cast aluminum burner base threads strip against the brass retaining nut. Use Liquid Wrench or a similar product and work carefully, taking great care not to cross-thread parts when replacing the burner base and nut. Otherwise you'll end up having to replace the whole burner base assembly - as we had to do. Lift off the burner grate (#2) Lift off the burner cap (#9) After cleaning and then soaking the threads of the brass retainer nut (#19). This nut is what retains the whole assembly: burner base #9, igniter #18, and the burner base plate (#7) all in place. Lift off the cast metal burner base (#9) whose extension is what holds the igniter in place This should pull up or expose the ceramic igniter itself (#18 is an enlarged view, but the igniter will be retained by the protrusion in the burner base pointed to by arrow at #9 in the parts explosion above. [Click to enlarge any image] Watch out: Take care to note the position of the burner base late (#7) and the hole through which the igniter and its wire pass, since there may be more than one apparently-possible position for the plate during reassembly. Only one position - the original one - is correct. You will see that you can pull up the igniter and the wire connected to its base. Carefully unplug the igniter, inspect the wire for damage, and assuming the wire is intact, plug it to the bottom of the new igniter and reverse the steps above to reassemble the unit. If you do not have a copy of the installation and operation manual for your Jenn-Air gas cooktop, you can download it from the link I give below The center nut holds the burner; I don't recall any other screws. Could the burner base just be stuck to the top? Check the parts explosion for the rangetop. I'm more concerned about why I can't remove the burner base and base plate from the gas riser on the other two. I've attached a pic of that. You can see how I was able to carve a recessed ring around the riser using an awl, and I have been soaking the area with PB Blaster every day for the last couple of days, and tonight switching back to WD-40. When I try to lift up on the base plate, it pulls everything up, including the gas riser. I have tried lifting and at the same time, tapping down on the riser lightly with a hammer, but they just don't want to separate. Any advice? I have what appears to be the same JennAir cooktop pictured in this article. When I try to disassemble, I get stuck. I have 2 retaining nuts removed and 2 still stuck. On the two that are still stuck, I have been doing daily dosages with WD-40 (2-days) and PB Blaster (3 days), but they are still stuck. Any advice? I'm afraid to turn the nuts with too much force, as I don't want to break/bend anything inside the cooktop. On the two that have the retaining nuts removed, the burner base and base plate do not want to lift off. Everything is pretty much stuck in place. I'm on day 2 of soaking with PB Blaster, but no progress is apparent. Any advice See GAS COOKTOP RANGE & OVEN MANUALS and also see additional citations at REFERENCES @Eric, if I understand you're changing the gas control knob assembly or valve, not the igniter. That sounds like a gas clog in the control valve itself. When a gas burner on a stovetop won't ignite, we can diagnose a bit more-carefully to distinguish between a problem with the igniter itself, the igniter wiring, the control module that sends current to the igniter, and the burner control knob and valve assembly. When you open or turn on the gas burner at its control knob, two things happen: 1. the valve opens to let gas flow to the burner 2. the valve makes an electrical connection to tell the burner control module to send current to the igniter. Match or lighter test can tell us that there is gas flow to the burner IF you see or hear the igniter sparking, but no gas is flowing to the burner then the problem is with the gas flow: possibly a clog in the gas valve or in the gas metering orifice for that burner. That can happen if someone spills food onto the stovetop at the burner or near the control valve. To test this I light a match or cigarette lighter and hold hit by the burner, then open the gas valve. If the burner ignites, then there WAS GOOD GAS FLOW and the problem was the igniter. If the burner doesn't ignite and you don't even see a disturbance of the match flame at the burner, and you don't smell gas coming out at the burner, then the problem is NO or WEAK GAS FLOW. Watch out: don't leave a gas burner open without successful burner ignition or you risk a gas fire or explosion. If you establish that there is good gas flow, then proceed with the gas burner igniter diagnostic steps above on this page. My GE stove has developed a problem where certain gas valves will not fire the igniters. In order to light those burners I have to move another burner's valve to the light position to get all of the igniters to spark. Does this indicate that the igniter switches are bad for those burners? I have a Maytag Gas Slide-In Range precision touch Control 800. Two of the 1 burner is not lighting or clicking at all. One burner will light, then won't. This literally happened overnight. Not sure if this is a DIY. I'm a little antsy when it comes to messing with Gas or Electricity. @Mark, Can't say it always happens on every stovetop but IF the igniter wires run along the bottom of the same pan that catches spills and overflows then they may get wet - and work oddly until they dry out again; This isn't the only source of gas stove igniter problems - as you can read in the article, but it's the most-common. @inspectapedia.com.moderator, My wife HAS had an overflow or 2 in the 24 years we've had this. But I didn't think enough was even able to get inside to do any damage. @Mark, I mention it because quite often I've found that a pot overflow or too much liquid during stovetop cleaning can wet the igniter wires and cause shorting inside the stovetop - I agree that you want to be cautious taking apart an old stovetop - corroded parts break or threads get stripped, etc. @inspectapedia.com.moderator, Yeah, I read all that and only didn't check the wires because I have to get into where the wires are and I've been afraid to try that so far. Thanks for the other information. @Mark, Usually the intermittent sparking problem you cite is caused by one of the problems in our diagnostic list on the page above - so I hope you'll give that a try. Particularly, before you replace the module or igniters, look for a bad igniter-to-wire-to-module connection or for a wet wire that's shorting out down in the stovetop. If the connections are the same they may well be interchangable but to be clear I don't know that for a fact; If you want to check with KitecheAid there will be a telephone number in your IO manual for our Kitechenaid stovetop, or CALL 1 (800) 422-1230 Hours of Operation Mon–Tue: 8 a.m.–8 p.m. EST, Wed–Fri: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. EST MAIL KitchenAid ATTN: Correspondence Team 553 Benson Road Benton Harbor, MI 49022 @inspectapedia.com.moderator, Also, is the KitchenAid spark module WPW10110491, the same as the GE WB13T10046? They certainly LOOK the same. @inspectapedia.com.moderator, Thanks for those tips on getting the top off the counter. I presume one turns off the electric and gas first, but what about the gas connection? It looks like a pipe comes from below the cabinet and then there is a flexible metal "pipe" that goes up to the stovetop. Should it be disconnected at the pipe or at the stove? What about the intermittent nature of the igniters not working? Is that a normal failure symptom? @Mark, I'm not sure exactly how your stove top is installed, but I have successfully removed glass drop in range tops by cutting carefully with a single edge razor blade to remove the sealant. If necessary you can even carefully Slide the razor blade under the edge of the glass. Just don't lift up or pry before you've cut everything. I have a Kitchenaid stovetop KGCT305EWH0. Sometimes all the units spark and it might work for a week, then they all stop. A week later, they might start again. I've cleaned the igniters with some abrasive paper and the caps underneath with some green abrasive plastic pad (don't remember what you call that). But that doesn't help. Does the igniter module fail in this way and by that I mean intermittently? For now we just use a propane lighter when we need to operate it, but it is a nuisance. If the igniter module needs replacing, then I have to try to pry the adhesive from the underneath of the glass and I'm afraid I would break it and I think there is NO replacement of the white glass. What do you think? @juan camargo, See if you can find a data plate - usually on the side of an oven door opening or inside of a countertop drop in range etc. please can you tell me what's the year and model number of this stove, I need to find a valve, thank you @Rich, Yep that constant igniter clicking is a common problem; Above on this page in the article section titled https://inspectapedia.com/Appliances/Gas_Stove_Igniter_Repair.php#Igniter_Clicking IGNITER CLICKING DIAGNOSIS I give 8 things to try. Please take a look and let me know if you find that works for you. Hi I have a premier 24" stove/oven. Upon connecting power to the unit all igniters start and continue to fire off. I cleaned and dryed the igniter switchs but the igniters continued to click. I tried disconnecting the igniter switch harness assembly from the modulator. Surprisingly when I connected power back to the unit the igniters still continued to click. I guess I'm not sure what the igniter switchs are supposed to do... create a connection from the modulator to the ignitors? Impede a connection from the modulator to the igniters? The modulator is supplying power to the igniters even when the igniter switchs are disconnected! Thoughts? Modulator or ignitor switchs? @pandy, Start by checking that the burner caps are correctly placed. replaced all four hot point gas igniters and there is no click. Can light two back burners with a lighter but the front two won't light Can hear and smell gas when turning on each burner @JonL, Thanks for the helpful suggestion on freeing-up stuck Jennair igniters. I've had the same trouble with several brands including Jenn-Air igniters; sometimes brushing with a bit of solvent and a toothbrush helps soften the gunk - in particular we need to take care not to strip the threads on the brass burner nut or on the pot-metal burner. Otherwise you'll end up having to replace those parts too. I've figured out how to change the igniter on a Jenn-air model with sealed burners. Basically the burners corrode to the cook top and you have to gently break that seal. After removing the brass nut of course using a 15/16th socket. I used a small screwdriver and a thin putty knife to do so. @PZ, Let's try and easy diagnostic experiment. Swap one of the igniters from another burner over to the one that's not igniting well. If that makes a difference than you know you need to replace the igniter. The other thing to look at it closely as possible presence of food or grease in the spark contact surface between the igniter on the burner edge. Be sure that's very clean. Hi. I have a Model #79078583407 Kenmore gas range. One of the burners is not lighting properly (sometimes, it will ignite but sometimes won't. It does spark consistently though.) but the other 3 burners are igniting fine and consistently. I have already cleaned the problem burner but it still does not light consistently. The spark does appear orange but will also turn blue/white. I am confused if I need to replace the igniter if the other 3 burners have no issues. Or should I be replacing the spark module? Thanks for any advice you could give. @Bob D, Indeed the components include a switch or contact at the burner control knob. A guess at probability of most-common causes of stovetop igniter troubles 1. burner cap is askew - The No. 2 problem I find is wet wires between igniter and the spark module - it can take days for wetting from an overflowing pot of soup to dry out down in the stovetop. No. 3 is probably a dirty food-contaminated igniter No. 4 is probably a cracked igniter On occasion the wires need replacement On occasion the module itself has failed On occasion there's a bad control contact ion the burner control knob/switch I should have included in my first post that I had been able to conform power at the wall plug and power at least up through the power cord where it enters the bottom of the unit. I am wondering what components other than spark module might be the issue. I did male sure the ignitors are clean but am unsure what role the switch beneath the know plays to create the spark or acts to prevent the spark if something not right? @Sudheer, That repair cost does sound extreme - since the igniter parts typically cost less than $20. U.S. First identify the right igniter part number and get your replacements on hand: igniters and wires for your KitchenAid KFGS366VSS01 gas cooktop. You can often buy those parts from Sears Direct https://www.searspartsdirect.com/ Try some Liquid Wrench or similar solvent to free up those stuck mounting screws; Hi I have KFGS366VSS01 Model and the center burner's igniter porcelain casing has broken. Igniter does click but the spark direction is random. If I turn on using the lighter, the clicking sound is not stopping from the igniter. The igniter on all other burners is keep clicking while we cook on that burner. The service person gave a quote of $450 to replace. Is there any way to fix it without spending the money. I am handy, but couple of the screws on the stove are really stuck and I can't take them out :( @Bob D, Before digging into the stovetop to get at the module, check that electricity to the stove is on - check at its receptacle. I have a ge monogram model zgu36kwk2ww gas on glass stovetop. yesterday the ignitors all stopped working ,none of the 5 ignitors will click, gas definitely comes out but no clicking no ignition. I tried to clean up each ignitor and they don't look bad. is the fact that all ignitors do not work lead to likely spark module problem. Or if one ignitor is having a problem do they all shut down as I understand ge has all ignitors spark when lighting a single ignitor. thanks for any inputs. @Larry, Do you article above lists a number of points that you will want to check. Quite common for the case you describe is that the wires are soaked inside the stovetop and need time to dry out. Frigidaire gas range, all 5 stove top burner igniter positions make clicking sound. Only 1 burner shows a spark and lights the gas. @Tom, you can certainly wait on replacing the wiring. From what you described I suspect that you had a wet wire the dried out. But if you spill into the stove pipe and the problem did you need to disassemble and dry the wires and perhaps at that time and see if you can grab them off the bottom of wet areas. So the burner all of a sudden started clicking and working after not working for about 2 weeks. per my post last week. Should I replace the burner switch harness anyway in case it goes out again? @Tom, often the condition you describe tells us that the spark module itself is working but that there's a wiring problem such as a wet wire or a bad connection. So check first the electrode for cleanliness and damage and then follow the wire between the electrode and the spark module to make sure it's not wet. Please review the details of diagnosing and fixing this problem in the article above as that's far more thorough Kenmore range burner won't spark or click when knob is turned, but I see a spark from that electrode when I turn on a different burner. I can light the broken burner by hand so it's getting gas. What's the problem? As long as all of the burners and oven controls on your gas stove are in the OFF position, there should be no gas leakage into your home - (presuming the gas piping, controls, etc. are not damaged, were properly-installed, etc). But Watch out: if someone who doesn't understand that the igniters are not working or are OFF and who doesn't know that they need to use a hand-held spark igniter or a match to turn on a burner turns on the gas to any of the burners or the oven, there is risk of a gas explosion. So if anybone other than you (who knows the danger) might be operating the stove without your supervision, it would be safer to turn off its gas supply. Is it safe to leave gas on if igniter switch goes out and I've turned off electrical power to stove top @Robert L Dielman, try stepping through the diagnostics given above on this page - that's more complete than any wild guess I might add with no other info about your range. Let me know how that works for you or tell me if any of the material needs clarification. Have a frigidaire range low cosylt model 5 yrs old. Only one igniter sparks. I suspect that the part may be stuck in place by food spills but I don't know that for sure. I might try a bit of solvent like WD40, soaking, and gentle prying with a flat bladed putty knife AFTER confirming that your stovetop is one like that shown in our example: whose burners just lift up and off. . It could also have been installed in a cross threaded position. I don't know that either. That's why we need to look at the parts explosion to see how it's assembled. [Click to enlarge any image] There are at least 250 different GE Gas range products, so you will need the exact model number of your GE Profile gas range to get the exactly correct installation and use/care manuals for your unit. Below I provide two examples that may be helpful along with the GE manual download website. GE GAS DOWNDRAFT COOKTOP OWNERS MANUAL [PDF] Profile Gas Range, built-in, Models PGP9830 & PGP989 (2015) GE GAS DOWNDRAFT COOKTOP OWNERS MANUAL & INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] Profile Gas Range, built-in, Models PGP9830 & PGP989 (2015) See also the GE website for manual downloads, found at https://products.geappliances.com/ As you'll see in our sketch, excerpted from the instruction manual, GE says the burner head ought to lift straight off. We have a GE Profile built in gas range. The front left burner head will not lift off of the surface for cleaning like the other burner heads can. It cannot rotate due to the igniter underneath, but it appears to be positioned at a different angle that the others. What is the correct alignment of the burner heads supposed to be? Is there anything different about the front left burner head that will release it when you need to remove it? What did your onsite experts do? Did anyone check the wires for immersion in spills, loose connections, or a failing control module or any of the other diagnostics given on the page above? Our gas cooktop lights one day and not the next- and so on. We have had 3 companies out but because it is working when they are here they say there is nothing they can do. The next day I am back to user a lighter to light the burners. Frustrating to say the least. It is clean- probably not the power since it works every other day. Could it be the module? Any ideas you have would be helpful. Thank you. Jen If there's any possibility of a recent liquid spill into the stove pipe then you would want to check all of the wires between the igniters and the control module because if one of those is wetter shorted that could cause the problem you describe. If that's not the case then it's possible that the control module itself needs to be replaced. Hi, We have cleaned all electrodes, reseated burner caps etc. Any thoughts as to what this could be? We are thinking a short somewhere but not sure. We live in a rural area so just getting a technician may be a challenge and I am looking to order parts necessary for the fix in order to take care of it. Jen Thank you so much for the detailed and well-organized troubleshooting steps ... Continue reading at GAS IGNITER DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR - topic home, where we discuss diagnosing and fixing gas ignition problems at LP or natural gas heaters, furnaces, water heaters and other appliances, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX. Or see GAS COOKTOP IGNITER REPAIR FAQs - questions & answers about how to diagnose and repair gas burner igniter problems. Or see these GAS COOKTOP or STOVE IGNITER REPAIR at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice. Or see this Or use the SEARCH BOX found below to Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia ... Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly. Search the InspectApedia website Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator. Apologies for the delay. Click to Show or Hide Citations & References This is not a product defect, it's a housekeeping problem.
Question on stray currents and gas igniter problems on a Maytag Range
Reply: gas appliance or heater flame igniter shock hazards
Question: gas igniters just won't stop clicking
Reply: common causes of & repair for gas igniters that won't stop clicking
If the gas burner ignites and looks normal but the igniter won't stop clicking then check the following:
Question: How do I Replace the Gas Burner or Igniter on a Jenn-Air Cooktop?
[Click to enlarge any image] 2017/10/14 Rob said: Jenn-Air Cooktop, CVGX2423B has the clicking problem
Reply:
The two that are giving me trouble with the nuts are the two larger ones, the back left and front right. I'm sure I'll get them in due time, so I'm not overly concerned about those nuts.
Gas Cooktop & Range Appliance Manuals
Reader Q&A - also see the FAQs series linked-to below
and
Don't mean to say it's always "damage" that's lasting
Other burners click and gas flows, can be lit with a match. Why no igniter spark? Electrode and burner assemblies have all been cleaned and compressed air blown.
Thanks!
@Brad T, I think the least ambiguous thing to do would be to get a hold of the owners and installation manual for this particular range top and look at the parts explosion.
We have a GE Cafe model CGY366P2M1S1. When we turned a burner off last night all electrodes began firing and we have to unplug it in order for this to not happen. It seems connected to the one burner, as when we turn it on with the stove plugged in, and then turn it off, the electrodes stop firing.
Gas Burner Troubleshooting Articles
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